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“Modern restaurant cooking is first and foremost a boat that, as in a Saul Steinberg drawing, steams its way downriver from the thousand dreamy islands of alcohol to the wide beckoning current of caffeine, from the stress-busting drink to the reawakening demitasse. A modern French meal not including both…is impossible to imagine. Dinner with water is dinner for prisoners.”

The Table Comes First: Family, France, and the Meaning of Food (New York: Knopf, 2011), 31.
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