“Modern restaurant cooking is first and foremost a boat that, as in a Saul Steinberg drawing, steams its way downriver from the thousand dreamy islands of alcohol to the wide beckoning current of caffeine, from the stress-busting drink to the reawakening demitasse. A modern French meal not including both…is impossible to imagine. Dinner with water is dinner for prisoners.”

Adam Gopnik

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“The idea was to take French cooking out of cuckoo land and bring it down to where everybody is. You can’t turn a sow’s ear into veal Orloff, but you can do something very good with a sow’s ear.”

Julia Child

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